Mead Recipe: Process & Preparation
Clean and sanitise all equipment and work area
- Prepare and sanitise your fermenter
- Prepare the Must (honey infused liquid / additives the yeast will feed on)
- If Honey crystallised – place container in a warm water bath
- Heat / boil water and remove from heat source
- Add honey and mix well
- Set the OG (Original Gravity) as per your recipe or desired finished ABV
- Add the Yeast Nutrient
- Adjust for target volume
- Sanitise the Must (3 methods – Boiling / Heating / Sulphites)
- Select and rehydrate the yeast in 250ml of water
- Oxygenate the Must and pitch the yeast
- Control temperature during primary fermentation (22 degrees ideal)
- Check primary fermentation has completed – use your hydrometer!
- Rack to Secondary and mature –
- If making a traditional Mead – Clear via cold crash / finings
- If making a flavoured mead – infuse and / or sulphite to cease yeast activity
- Test and adjust sweetness / acidity / flavour etc
- Bottle and mature / age (12 months minimum recommended)
Sanitising
Preparing and sanitising the must for Mead Recipe
- After cleaning / sanitising all equipment mix the ingredients as per your recipe to form a ‘Must’
- Honey will contain pollen, bee parts, cappings, debris and wild yeast
- When preparing the Must it is considered good practice to sanitise it
- Sanitising the Must removes any bacteria, renders wild yeast inert and provides the basis for a ‘clean ferment’
- Honey does have antibacterial attributes and some Mead makers do not sanitise – we recommend you do – means you have full control over flavour
- There are three methods for sanitising the must:
- Boiling
- Heating
- Sulphites
Sanitising the must with boiling
- The traditional way of sanitising the Must
- Involves heating water to near boiling, adding honey and then bringing the Must to a boil for circa. 5 minutes – do not add honey directly to heat!
- Good method for ‘dirty’ honey – coagulated proteins and wax can be scooped off the top
- Must needs to be chilled / cooled prior to pitching yeast
- Advantages:
- The boil will kill all bacteria and wild yeast
- Protein compounds boiled out – less chance of haze in the final product
- No chemicals
- Disadvantages:
- Possible colour change
- Honey flavour and aromatics will be significantly decreased
- Finished product will likely lack honey characteristics
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Sanitising the must heating
- The modified way of sanitising the Must
- Involves heating water to near boiling, adding honey and then holding the temperature at a set temperature for a period of time!
- A good temperature range is 66 – 72 degrees for around 20 to 25 minutes
- The lower the temperature the less impact on honey flavour and aromatics
- Must needs to be chilled / cooled prior to pitching yeast
- Advantages:
- The heat will kill all bacteria and wild yeast
- They Must will have the majority of contaminants removed
- Some protein compounds will remain compared to boiling – reduced chance of haze in the final product
- No chemicals
- Disadvantages:
- Possible colour change
- Honey flavour and aromatics may decrease
- Finings may be needed as residual protein compounds may cause haze
Sanitising the must sulphites
- The modern way of sanitising the Must
- Involves adding either Sodium Metabisulphite, Campden Tablets (crushed) or Potassium Metabisulphite (preferred) to a warm Must
- If using Sulphites the Must needs to ‘set’ for 24Hrs before pitching the yeast
- Dosage rates: 0.5g per 3.8L / 1.65g per 19L
- Advantages:
- The Must is sterilised completely
- Honey flavour and aromatics will be retained
- Good stability against potential biological spoilage hazards
- No change in colour
- Disadvantages:
- Potential ‘salty’ characteristic if using Sodium Metabisulphite
- Finings may be needed as protein compounds may cause haze
- Some people react to sulphites
Selecting, rehydrating and pitching yeasts
- Most yeasts used for Beer & Winemaking will ferment Mead
- Yeast varieties have a large influence on final flavour and attenuation
- We recommend:
- Beer Yeast – Danstar Nottingham (balanced, strong fermentation)
- Wine Yeast – EC-1118 (high alcohol tolerance, aggressive fermentation)
- Dry Mead Yeast – MJ’s M05 – Dry Mead
- Wet Mead Yeast – White Labs WLP720 – Sweet Mead (needs a starter)
- Dry Yeast needs to be rehydrated in warm water (not hot!)
- Rehydrate the yeast in 250mls of 30-38 degree water for 15 minutes
- Rehydrating yeast reduces the amount of yeast cells that will die during the pitch – it allows the yeast to become acclimatised to its environment
- Liquid Yeasts need to propagate via a Starter
- Oxygenate the Must (very important!) and then pitch the yeast – ensure the Must and rehydrated yeast are the same temperature (refer to yeast packet temperature ranges)
Understanding 4 Stage Fermentation in Making Mead Recipe
Many Brewers stress over visible airlock fermentation activity. The fermentation process is:
Lag Period:
- After pitching the yeast takes time to acclimatise to its environment and prepare to replicate
- The yeast cells absorb the necessary nutrients to undertake growth on a massive scale
- No visible fermentation activity will be evident during the lag period which can last from 24 to 72 hours depending on the strain of yeast used
Respiratory or Aerobic Phase:
- The yeast cells have now absorbed nutrients and oxygen and multiplied several times over until they deplete the reserves available for replication
- The yeast as it replicates in creating new cell walls that will be permeable to the sugars they will eventually metabolise
Fermentation or Anaerobic Phase:
- After replicating and using all available oxygen / nutrients available the east switches to metabolizing the sugars they have absorbed into alcohol and C02
- The yeast will continue to reproduce but on a smaller scale until all sugars are depleted or the alcohol tolerance of the yeast is reached
Flocculation:
- When available sugar is exhausted the yeast prepares to die or go dormant by changing its cell wall structure
- The yeast cells clump together and form ‘flocs’ and then settle to the bottom of the fermenter
- The speed and degree of settling varies in different yeast strains
- A good Mead yeast strain will ferment / attenuate completely and then settle to a compact pack at the bottom of the fermenter
Post primary Fermentation. Racking to a secondary
- When primary fermentation is nearing completion there will be a large amount of trub – dead yeast cells and fermentation by-products
- Racking to a secondary fermenter takes the Mead off the trub which can impart off flavours over time
- Racking is done with a racking cane / auto syphon from the top of the liquid level to ensure the trub is not disturbed and the Mead does not become oxidised
- By leaving behind the trub you are assisting the Mead to clear and mature
- Sometimes racking can be done post primary or near completion of primary fermentation
- Some Mead Makers will rack 3 to 4 times as they clear, flavour and age their Mead
- Racking to a secondary is the ideal time to start flavouring your Mead Recipe
Flavouring Mead Recipe
- Mead can be flavoured with a variety of stone & soft fruits or infused with fruit or grape juice
- Steeping Oak and adding aroma hops is becoming increasingly popular
- There are 2 methods to flavour the Mead with fruit:
- Adding the fruit at primary fermentation – freeze or sanitise first. This method can result in the flavour / sweetness of the fruit fermenting out and can lead to primary fermentation issues
- Adding the fruit to the secondary post primary fermentation – this method requires the use of Potassium Sorbate prior to adding the fruit to ensure the yeast does not commence fermenting the sugars in the fruit. Most flavour is infused in the secondary, the alcohol present inhibits bacterial activity and the fruit can be removed when the desired flavour / colour is reached.
- Dose Potassium Sorbate at a rate of 1.4g per 3.8L or 7g per 19L
- Allow the Mead to ‘set’ for 24 hours after dosing before adding fruit
- Adding the fruit at primary fermentation – freeze or sanitise first. This method can result in the flavour / sweetness of the fruit fermenting out and can lead to primary fermentation issues
Troubleshooting a mead style
- If your Mead has stopped fermenting / not reached the target FG:
- Check SG over 2 days to see if it is fully attenuated
- Check pH – adjust if too acidic (Calcium Carbonate)
- Pitch more high alcohol tolerant yeast (EC-1118)
- If your Mead has stopped fermenting / not reached the target FG:
- If your Mead is too sweet:
- If still fermenting – as per the above
- If fully fermented – add Malic, Tartaric or Citric Acid to balance sweetness
- If still fermenting – as per the above
- If your Mead is too Dry:
- After fermentation add Potassium Sorbate to inhibit yeast activity – let ‘set’ for 24 hours
- Back sweeten with honey, sugar syrup or fruit juice
- After fermentation add Potassium Sorbate to inhibit yeast activity – let ‘set’ for 24 hours
- If your Mead is Hazy (suspended proteins and yeast):
- Allow more time in secondary to naturally clear
- Cold Crash to drop yeast and proteins out of suspension
- Use a fining agent
- Allow more time in secondary to naturally clear
Bottling Storage and Maturing
- Prior to bottling ensure fermentation has completely ceased
- Allow the Mead to clear naturally or use finings to clear the mead prior to bottling
- If you have back sweetened Mead after using Potassium Sorbate allow 24 hours minimum after dosing prior to bottling
- Avoid oxidising the Mead when bottling – oxidised Mead will haze and develop a wet cardboard taste over time
- Use glass bottles if possible
- Store your bottled Mead away from light in an area with stable temperature
- Allow the Mead to age / mature if possible – Mead improves with age
- If you want a sparkling Mead – dose bottles with dextrose and secondary ferment – cannot use Potassium Sorbate if secondary fermenting
A Basic Mead Recipe – 5 Gallon Batch
A Medium Sweet Basic Mead Recipe – 5 Gallons / 19L Batch (Scale for 1 Gallon Batch)
- Ingredients:
- 8kg of clean, quality Honey – no off aroma or flavour
- 15.15L of good quality water (use enough to make a 19L batch)
- 10g of Yeast Nutrient
- 2 x 10g Mangrove Jack’s Craft Series M05 Mead Yeast
- 8kg of clean, quality Honey – no off aroma or flavour
- Process:
- Clean & Sterilise all Equipment, Fermenters / Demijohns – anything that will come into contact with the Must
- Put 4L of water in a large pot and bring it to the boil for 10 minutes then remove from heat and add the yeast nutrient
- Add the honey and stir until the water and honey are fully combined and of a uniform consistency
- Sanitise the Must by your preferred method (boiling not recommended for Basic Meads as it will remove flavour and aromatics)
- Pour the Must into the fermenter and add the remaining water (will cool the Must to pitching temperature) – take OG reading which should be between 1.112 and 1.128
- Rehydrate the yeast in 250mls of 30-38 degree water for 15 minutes
- Vigorously stir the Must to oxygenate it for 5 to 10 Minutes then pitch the rehydrated yeast and seal the fermenter
- Keep the fermenter between 15-20 degrees Celsius (22 degrees is ideal) – fermentation activity should be evident within 24 hours
- After about 14 days fermentation activity will start to slow – rack the Mead to a cleaned and sanitised secondary fermenter and continue fermenting (can check SG at this time – should be 1.030 or lower)
- After fermentation activity has ceased – confirm with Hydrometer (FG should be 1.010 or lower) – allow the Mead to clear for another 14 days*
- After 14 Days bottle the Mead and store / mature for at least 3 months before drinking – 6 -12 Months storage preferred for optimal flavour
- Clean & Sterilise all Equipment, Fermenters / Demijohns – anything that will come into contact with the Must